I get asked often why in some of our newer patterns we are now adding shoulder measurements in our size charts. Simply put, it’s so you can achieve the best fit possible for YOUR body.

At Annelaine, we use certain measurement standards that give us a baseline. But every body is different. If you consider your shoulders either wide or narrow… this post will very likely help you! Or if you simply want to change the spot where your sleeve cap seam hits on the shoulder.

These principles can be applied to any pattern. Remember to perform this on both the front and the back bodice pieces. Also with this method, no sleeve adjustments are necessary.

Here we go!

STEP 1:

First working on your front bodice piece, draw your 1/4″ seam allowances for the shoulder seam and the armscye up until it starts to curve.

Shoulder adjustment

STEP 2:

On your shoulder seam allowance line, draw a line from it’s center point down to the armscye seam allowance line right where it begins to curve.

Shoulder adjustment

STEP 3:

From that line you just drew, draw another line from it’s center point to the intersection of your seam allowance lines for the shoulder and the armscye.

Shoulder adjustment

STEP 4:

Cut the first guideline as shown, making sure to not cut past the seam allowance line on the armscye.

Shoulder adjustment

STEP 5:

Cut the second guideline as shown, also making sure not to cut past the seam allowance lines.

Shoulder adjustment

STEP 6:

Now, you can pivot the pattern piece for both a wide or a narrow shoulder adjustment.

Shoulder adjustment

STEP 7A – NARROW SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT:

If your across the back shoulder measurement (refer to size chart) is LESS than the number listed for your size, you will need to take the difference and divide it in half, and reduce this shoulder seam measurement by exactly that amount. Make sure you pivot both pieces to keep that shoulder seam in a straight line. Tape in place. This is your narrow shoulder adjustment.

Repeat with back bodice piece. You will not need to make any sleeve adjustments as this will not effect the length of the armscye.

Narrow shoulder adjustment

STEP 7B – WIDE SHOULDER ADJUSTMENT:

If your across the back shoulder measurement (refer to size chart) is MORE than the number listed for your size, you will need to take the difference and divide it in half, and increase this shoulder seam measurement by exactly that amount. Make sure you pivot both pieces to keep that shoulder seam in a straight line.Tape in place. This is your narrow shoulder adjustment.

Repeat with back bodice piece. You will not need to make any sleeve adjustments as this will not effect the length of the armscye.

Wide shoulder adjustment

And now you’re ready to cut out your fabric and sew! That wasn’t too difficult, was it?

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