How to add Bicep Ease for Set-in Sleeves

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Common adjustments are a critical part of sewing that can allow you to achieve a “perfect” fit for your body type every time. But often, pattern changes can be daunting to face. No two bodies are created alike so it’s important to tackle these alterations head on and store them in your arsenal of knowledge!

Today I’m going to show you how to increase the Upper Arm (Bicep) of a set-in sleeve pattern WITHOUT changing the armscye. You’ll be amazed at how simple it is!

Let’s get started.

First, take your pattern piece and draw a vertical line right down the center of it like this (shown in red).

Now, cut along the red line, but stop at the top of the sleeve cap so you don’t completely cut the piece in half. Pivot the sleeve open. How much you pivot it open will depend on how much ease you want to add. Remember, the area you want to focus on is right above the short sleeve cut line so that’s where you want to measure. Adding 1″, make sure it’s added there and don’t focus on the bottom of the sleeve.

Place a blank piece of paper behind your sleeve and tape it in place to fill in the opening you just created. Now, simply redraw your sleeve hem lines. 

And whellah!!! That is it. You’re done! Piece of cake.

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